Tours and Villandry Castle: history, architecture and gardens in the heart of the Loire

When we think of the Loire Valley, the majestic castles that rise along the river inevitably come to mind. It is possibly one of the most visited and well-known areas in France, and there are no shortage of reasons why it should be so. Their chateaux They dot the countryside, leaving a landscape of rural contrasts, between charming villages, forests and vineyards, and the occasional fortress.

But in this context there was always, and still is, a city of special interest, both historical and cultural, which today is an excellent starting point for exploring the region: Tours. Charming in itself, on the banks of the Loire and with a medieval old town, the capital of the province of Touraine conveys a modern spirit while telling us about saints from the 4th century. It has also been the birthplace of such diverse characters as Balzac or the singer Zaz.

Tours is known for its university atmosphere, which gives it a special vitality. With a young and dynamic population, it is easy to find a lively cultural life here, full of festivals, exhibitions and events. This fresh air creates an interesting contrast with everything the city has to say, full of cobblestone streets that transport us to another era. Tours has a perfect balance between old and new, and that can be seen in every corner.

A city of two halves

Tours has a fascinating history that dates back to Gallo-Roman times, but what many travelers do not know is that the current city is made up of two cities that were once separated, one to the west and one to the east, and that were unified at the end. of the 18th century with the French Revolution. Today both halves are separated by Rue Nationale and going from one to the other is as easy as crossing the tram tracks.

The eastern part, more monumental but with less life than its other half, is the one that was born on the ancient Gallo-Roman remains. In fact, seen from the air you can still appreciate the circular shape of its architectural beginnings next to the Saint-Gatien Cathedral, a masterpiece that stands out for its sculptures and stained glass windows. Here we find two of the main symbols of this side of the city: a huge cedar of Lebanon 32 meters high and more than 220 years old and, a few meters from it, as strange as it may seem, a stuffed elephant originally from a circus from Turon from 1902.

The western part, which was born in the Middle Ages around the primitive Basilica of Saint Martin of Tours, is where the rhythm of the city changes completely. This is where university life is concentrated, where bars and restaurants line the streets, and where the famous Plumereau Square is located, the heart of the heartbeat that moves the city of Tours. Of course, during World War II both halves of the city were devastated and had to be rebuilt later.

A walk through the historic center of Tours

Entering the western half of Tours is quite similar to taking a trip back in time. It is true that the city was destroyed, but there are still enough architectural examples to give us a good idea of ​​the splendor that Tours already looked many centuries ago. Walking through cobblestone streets we will reach the aforementioned Plumereau square. And there, sitting in one of its cafes or restaurants that invite you to rest and enjoy the atmosphere, it is easy to imagine how these facades have witnessed centuries of history, from the Middle Ages to the present day.

One of the most important characters that has marked the history of Tours is Saint Martin, whose influence is present in the city of which he was a Catholic bishop. Saint Martin of Tours, known for being one of the most venerated saints in Europe, has his tomb in the city, although he was born in the year 316 in Pannonia (Roman Empire), present-day Hungary. His legacy lives on, attracting pilgrims and visitors who want to learn more about his life and works. In fact, the basilica dedicated to Saint Martin is one of the most important places in the city, not only for its religious relevance, but also for its history.

It is interesting to stop here and in its surroundings to learn that originally there was a large collegiate church of Saint Martin of Tours, from the 11th century and where the remains of the saint rested, which was abandoned, vandalized and transformed into a stable in 1793, to end up being demolished. after the collapse of the vaults in 1797. Only two towers remain from that temple, very distant from each other and now separated by several streets and buildings that were built later, shaping the city as if nothing had happened, and leaving both towers isolated. One of them, Charlemagne’s, offers excellent views of the city. Between 1886 and 1902, and without moving the saint’s tomb, a new temple was built, perpendicular to the original, much more modern and in the neo-Byzantine style, which is the one we can visit today.

Tours has been recognized as a City of Art and History, all you need to do is visit its museums or its quartier des arts to understand it, and it also holds the title of Capital City of Gastronomy, which makes it an essential destination for lovers of good food. Local markets, small restaurants and specialties from the Loire region are reasons enough to stop and savor life at a slower pace.

The Loire, the essence of Tours

A fundamental detail that marks the essence of Tours is its location on the banks of the Loire. This great river, whose valley is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as living cultural landscapes, not only marks the aesthetics of the city, but also gives Tours a pleasant and bucolic air. One of the most authentic and recommended experiences that can be had in the city is to sit at sunset in one of its guinguettesthe traditional terraces of bars and restaurants that are installed outdoors next to rivers and lakes in France, to let yourself be carried away by a relaxed and carefree atmosphere. With a drink in hand and the gentle sound of water, it is a perfect place to disconnect and enjoy the cozier side of Tours.

If you prefer to go one step further and get to know the river from the inside, then you will like to get on a touethe traditional Loire boat, to enjoy its waters from a different perspective. This type of boat, with its flat design, was formerly used for river trade, but today it has been adapted to offer pleasant trips that usually include an aperitif on board with regional specialties, wines and juices from the area.

Villandry, a garden turned into a castle

Less than 20 km from Tours, in the heart of the Loire Valley, is Villandry Castle, the last of the great Renaissance castles that were built in this region. Although it is not the best known, it is undoubtedly one of the most special and as soon as you arrive you will understand why. Its origins date back to a 12th-century fortress, whose keep is still visible today, but in 1532 Jean Breton, finance secretary and chief advisor to Francis I, acquired it and built a castle with a large garden in its place. ornamental. In the 18th century its interior was redesigned, in the 19th century the gardens were designed in the English style and already in the 20th century, the scientists Joaquín Carvallo, Spanish, and his wife Ann Coleman, American, acquired Villandry and recreated the gardens in the style of the that existed in the 16th century, in perfect harmony with the stone architecture. Today his great-grandson is the current administrator of the castle and its gardens.

Visiting the palace is immersing yourself in a world of luxury and attention to detail, in which every corner seeks perfection. A 15-minute film presenting the history of Villandry is shown next to the entrance hall, and then in the model room we can get a better idea of ​​the magnitude of the place we are about to visit. We will pass through various rooms, the old keep, the dining room, the kitchen, different bedrooms, the library, galleries that are authentic art galleries and the oriental room, especially characteristic for presenting a Mudejar ceiling from the palace of the Dukes of Maqueda, built in the 15th century in Toledo.

Villandry’s plant paradise

There are many castles in the Loire, which is why what is truly characteristic and valuable about Villandry is found in its gardens. To give us an idea, the walled estate extends over 15 hectares, of which seven belong to the gardens. With meticulous geometric design and attention to detail, the gardens are divided into several themed areas. From the ornamental garden, with its delicate patterns and its garden of love, to the water garden, the sun garden, the labyrinth and even the forest.

The interesting thing about these gardens is that they not only convey beauty, but are also functional. The garden, which occupies an entire hectare, continues to produce vegetables just as it did in the Middle Ages, with all the plants forming geometric figures. In fact, during your walk you can pass by a small hut where, with luck, you will find freshly harvested vegetables for visitors to help themselves to free of charge. In addition, there is also a herb garden where, as was done in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, aromatic and medicinal plants are grown. The perfect place to live an experience that invites you to contemplate and enjoy the natural environment of Villandry.