To talk about underwater wines is to evoke the wrecks of old ships that sank with a good supply of wine in their cellars. Galleons, galleys, and luxurious ocean liners sank with an oenological treasure that, surprisingly, showed an astonishing vitality. Wines whose value reached astronomical prices at auctions, and which some wineries are now trying to emulate. They are doing so in countries such as Croatia, Italy, France, or Chile. In Spain, the restless winemaker Raúl Pérez was one of the first. His Albariño Sketch was submerged at 19 meters deep in metal cages under the waters of the Aurosa estuary. Another Pérez, in this case José Luis, from Jerez de la Frontera, made the first Andalusian wine under the sea in amphorae with the suggestive name Garum Submarino, a nod to the Romans. The icing on the cake has been put by Crusoe’s Treasurean underwater laboratory-winery, located on an artificial reef in the Cantabrian Sea (Plentzia), which combines research and advice. Other wineries follow in its footsteps, such as ElixSea, the only underwater winery in Spain that offers legal underwater ageing services to other wineries, MareVinum or Bodegas Verónica, which produces underwater wines at a depth of 40 metres in the Cabo Cope marine strip. Wine conquers a new horizon in the depths of the ocean. A truly immersive experience.
This innovative oenological practice consists of immersing bottles of wine in the sea for a certain period of time so that they can develop their ageing and refining process in a unique environment. Because the sea offers an exceptional environment, where factors such as constant temperature, total darkness, high pressure and the gentle and continuous movement caused by the currents play a crucial role. The result is a wine with sensory characteristics different from those produced in traditional wineries.
For example, the depths of the sea act as a natural thermal regulator, maintaining a stable temperature and minimising fluctuations that could affect the quality of the wine. At the same time, under the pressure of the water, more oxygen penetrates through the corks and, consequently, young red wines stabilise their colour as if they were in a barrel. The absence of light protects the wine from solar radiation, slowing down its evolution. Finally, underwater currents generate a constant movement that affects the structure of the wine in a graceful way, softening the tannins and avoiding reduced aromas, allowing for a better fruit expression. To all of this we must add significant changes in colour, especially in red wines, which tend to acquire a deeper and brighter tone, while white wines preserve their greenish tones better. Greater aromatic complexity and intensity are also observed, with a predominance of primary aromas of fruit and flowers, complemented by subtle saline notes. On the palate, the wine is perceived as having greater volume and freshness, accompanied by a remarkable silkiness and harmonious balance. And there is still much to discover.
Are underwater wines a passing fad, a gourmet whim or simply a curiosity? Perhaps a bit of everything. The truth is that this practice, although relatively recent, is gaining more and more acceptance among wine lovers and experts. The results obtained so far are promising and suggest that the sea could become a valuable ally for the production of quality wines with unique characteristics. In addition, the process adds a touch of uniqueness, with the bottles adorned with algae, shells and other marine adhesions from the underwater treasure, which, together with their usual high price, makes them an attractive option for those looking for an exclusive and memorable gift.
ATTIS MAR 2022
·Phone: 986 744 790
·DO: Rias Baixas
·Guy: white crianza, 13%
·Strains: Albariño
·Price: 88.20 euros
·Punctuation: 9.3/10
NAUTILUS VOLCANIC MALVASIA 2022
·Phone: 665 152 868
·DO: Lanzarote
·Guy: white crianza, 13.5%
·Strains: volcanic malvasia
·Price: 84 euros
·Punctuation: 9.2/10
VINA MARIS WHITE 2022
·Phone: 968 435 137
·DO: Does not have
·Guy: white, 12.5%
·Strains: Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc
·Price: 59.90 euros
·Punctuation: 9.2/10
TALK ABOUT THE SEA
·Phone: 927 659 180
·DO: Does not have
·Guy: white aged, 10%
·Strains: Atlantic blend from coastal vineyards
·Price: 20 euros
·Punctuation: 9/10
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