Together with climate researcher Heidi Sevestre, world-class climbers Hazel Findlay and Mikey Schaefer, professional adventurer Aldo Kane and Greenlandic guide Adam Kjeldsen, record climber Alex Honnold (“Free Solo”) explored glaciers and lonely peaks in Greenland in the summer of 2022 . We talk to him about the expedition that National Geographic shows in the three-part series “Into Arctic Heights”.
Mr. Honnold, you appear here as the leader of a scientific expedition that, in addition to the first ascent of the 1,143 meter high Ingmikortilaq in East Greenland, aimed to find out about the loss of the Greenland ice sheet. A new role for you.
Well, I was the leader in name only. Heidi Sevestre was the scientific director. I think as an expedition leader it was up to me to choose the right destinations, assemble the right team and then allow everyone to do their best.
How did that come about?
People come to me all the time with ideas for television projects, usually not the best ideas. But in this case, the right things came together: this huge, unclimbed wall in a place that is very important for climate research, with an outstanding climate scientist. I thought that was a great idea.
Unexplored paths and life and death decisions are part of your climbing life. How do you balance adapting to conditions versus overcoming seemingly overwhelming challenges?
We crossed the huge Renland ice cap, and when we got into the boats on the other side, we actually sailed through an area for which there are virtually no nautical charts. Instead of the depth display there was only white, that was crazy. Going off the map is rare in the modern world. In a broader sense, we experienced this throughout the entire expedition, on these glaciers where no human had ever been. The landscape is constantly changing and the glaciers are in motion. You always have to assess the conditions ahead and make the best possible decision.
Birthday party at camp: Hazel Findley, Mikey Schaefer, Adam Mike Jeldsen, Alex Honnold, Aldo Kane and Heidi Sevestre (from left).
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Image: National Geographic/Matt Pycroft
That might be one of your strengths.
As a climber, you're constantly thinking about managing risks. This was particularly important on this expedition because everything in this landscape poses a risk: the crevasses, the weather – it is a very inhospitable environment.
At what points did you prefer to leave the leadership to others?
Anything other than climbing! Crossing the Renland Ice Cap on skis, navigating a snowstorm, life on the ice – that's Heidi and Aldo's world.
Climbing seems to be a lonely endeavor. Do you like collaborating with others?
I like being in a team. But in this endless landscape, even with a team, it was still completely lonely. It's hard to describe how incredibly big this world felt, the huge glaciers, the gigantic mountains, and not a soul for hundreds of miles. When skiing across the Renland Ice Cap, for example, you're completely with yourself. You're following someone else's trail or navigating, but you're not chatting the whole time because it's snowing and you're following the line. And in the evening you are alone in the tent.
Heidi Sevestre and Alex Honnold.
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Image: National Geographic/Pablo Durana
In the middle of the film, a crisis develops. The question is whether climbing Ingmikortilaq is not too dangerous. A member backs down. Have you ever thought: too risky?
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