The most densely populated artificial island in the world cries out for help

As a child, Luis Morelo's grandparents told him fascinating stories about Santa Cruz del Islote. Now, he shares them with the tourists who arrive daily on the most densely populated island in the world, compared to its size. It is a small artificial territory of almost one hectare, where 860 people live. A point on the planet with indescribable sunsets, impressive marine biodiversity, but with urgent needs.

At the end of the largest street on the Island – which does not exceed 15 meters wide and 6 meters long – is the Christmas Nativity scene that the islanders installed. Luis comments that it is the most important and symbolic part for them because the Holy Cross of May is located there, which was the first one built when The first inhabitants arrived 300 years ago and which gives its name to the island.

From there, they also begin the funeral rites when one of their own dies on the island and then they take the Calle del Adiós, another small passage that has access to the sea, where a barge awaits them to be transported to the Camposanto, on the nearby island. of Tintipan.

The houses around are of a simple structure—block or wood, like the rest of the 146 homes that are packed together and house the 816 people who live on the Island. Of them, about 200 are part of what is considered a floating population, which arrives during festive seasons. Its first inhabitants settled on a coral platform, with rubble and other objects they filled what is today the island, located more than an hour and a half from Cartagena de Indias.

Its narrow streets tell, with art, part of the history of Santa Cruz del Islote. “This sector is Villa Pepe, this man who was painted here was called that and he was the owner of this entire part” says Luis, 27 years old, who started as a tour guide seven years ago. “For me it is important to tell what my grandparents told me, transmit it and that the people who visit us know our history,” he says.

Another mural has phrases and sayings typical of the islanders, such as 'flew: person who likes gossip; ''get ready': expression to demand concentration; 'You'll see if he believes me…'; 'hey, move on'among others.

Four generations of Luis's family have been born and raised in Santa Cruz. The population on the island, for the most part, They are young people and children who occupy the streets, chase the few dogs that accompany them or jump into the sea.. From a very young age they learn to start the engines of a boat and drive it; They also learn the trade of fishing.

His goal—like other local guides—is to show the daily life of the most densely populated artificial island in the world.

Diversified shortage on the Island

“I wouldn't change this life here not even for Dubai itself”says Luis, laughing. In the background, the sun was slowly sinking into the island's horizon. A palette of orange colors shelters its inhabitants. “Here we don't worry that they're going to take your cell phone away, life is relaxed. The noise of motorcycles or trucks does not stress you,” he says. “This island belongs to all those who inhabit the planet. Everyone is welcome”.

The last rays of the sun illuminating the homes mean for many of the islanders the end of light each day. “We have been without power for four months, in this heat and with difficulties maintaining the products,” Luis claimed.

Almost 10 years ago, several solar panels were installed to provide energy to the island, after a donation from the international cooperation of Japan, in gratitude for recording a documentary in Santa Cruz. In addition, they operate a gasoline engine that, before the panels, gave the island 4 to 5 hours of light, according to Luis.

Now, both systems are broken. The company in charge, the islanders said, has not responded to the multiple calls to fix the panels. “Now we have to be like this, wait for the sun to go down and be left without electricity,” says another of its inhabitants, who is carrying a bucket of water.

Santa Cruz is part of the San Bernardo Archipelago, under the administrative jurisdiction of Cartagena de Indias. But for many islanders, the last administration left them completely abandoned.

Without much hope, they now hope that the new mayor will return to look at Santa Cruz. “Many only come to campaign, they promise everything. They say that they are going to finish our houses, that they are going to fulfill this or that, but none of that happens.”said another islander, while redecorating the wooden frame placed for tourists to take photographs.

Water is the most precious thing. “It is our treasure,” Luis said, showing a cracked building where there is a cistern that collects rainwater. When it is about to run out, they call Cartagena so that the Navy can send ships to refill the tank, but their arrival may take several days.

“These days – between mid-December and early January -, for example, it has not rained and we feel the shortage,” says Miguel, another islander who works transporting tourists in the archipelago. While at the end of October and beginning of November they must deal with constant flooding due to strong tides.

Just six months ago, Miguel says, the island was able to have a permanent doctor, although supplies are insufficient and in emergencies they must leave by boat to another island. While education has allowed children and young people to obtain their high school diploma. There are about 200 students who come to the school attended by children from other islands such as Múcura and Tintipán.

In Santa Cruz there are no police, nor a judicial building where disputes that may arise between its inhabitants can be resolved. “The law here on the island is the elderly. When there is a conflict in the area, they are the ones who solve the problems,” he commented.

Now, they seek to make official a Community Council that they have organized, especially young people like Luis and Miguel, so that their voice has more weight in their claims before government institutions.

The pride of being an islander

Tourism and fishing are their main source of income. Most people work on nearby islands, in hotels, with boat transportation and other tourist services. While others are dedicated to fishing.

This last group can participate in an initiative that seeks to preserve maritime life, mainly.

“They take the turtles, which they sometimes catch, to Punta Faro -on Múcura Island-. There they exchange them for chicken and rice. There the turtles are marked to have a record and to be able to preserve them,” Luis said. The objective is to avoid the consumption of turtles or their capture for sale. “It's like a barter that we still maintain.”

The island is surrounded by a set of underwater ecosystems, with the most extensive coral platform in the Colombian continental Caribbean. Hence Since 1977, it was declared Corales del Rosario and San Bernardo National Natural Park.

Jorge, another islander resting in a chair, caresses 'Campo Elía', a chicken just preparing to be his fighting cock. “Here the majority raise roosters,” he counted. The island does not have a beach, but many take chairs and sit to talk or play dominoes in the afternoons.

The sun is about to set on the small island. Tourists buy the souvenirs that a family makes with shells, coconut and other materials. Luis Morelo proudly insists that he would not change his island for anything. He remains optimistic, but calls for attention to historical needs.

The young people of the Island have taken up the role of their ancestors to demand a dignified life. They are part of a new generation that seeks a better life for their own: their island neighbors and their neighbors from the sea. “We are the ocean,” reads a mural in Santa Cruz del Islote.