LONDON. Burberry overwhelms London with Daniel Lee’s return to the catwalk. To anticipate the second act of the English designer born in 1986 in the days preceding the event, a complete takeover of the city by Burberry: the historic Mayfair shopping street, Bond Street, was transformed into Burberry Street, coloring the walls of its subway with electric blue, the shade now the new symbol of the brand. At 4pm on Monday 18 September, closing four days of fashion shows in the capital, the iconic English brand brought its spring-summer ’24 collection under a huge tartan-print tent in the center of Highbury Fields, a small park in the heart of Islington, historic residential district in north London. Here, waiting for arriving guests, a Norman’s mini van distributed hot tea and coffee – consolidating the collaboration launched on social media with the famous English restaurant which attracts endless queues on Saturday mornings for a full English breakfast. Under the awning, English green reigns supreme on carpets and steel benches: above, strictly green quilted blankets and military water bottles (also quilted in electric blue) as placeholders, in continuity with the series of special gadgets that Lee gives away to the guests at each show.
London, at Fashion Week strength and lightness by JW Anderson
Carlotta Gallo
In the front row there is (almost) the entire cast of Top Boy with Kano, Michael Ward and Barry Keoghan. And then Kylie Minogue, Naomi Campbell and Jodie Comer, the footballers Saka and Son Heung-min, Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. The first show to the tune of Burial, this time a soundtrack by Dean Blunt, one of the most well-known sounds of the capital.
To open, the trench coat. Change of look for the brand’s iconic garment, now with a low-waisted belt and a relaxed, light silhouette, for the summer. It transforms from black to classic beige to patterns with chains and hardware, pre-announcing the direction of the collection that comes to life in the colorful prints. And again, tartans, strawberries, colorful flowers and cherries cover the fluttering fabrics on shirts and mesh dresses with woven embroidery. The bright color that characterized the first show appears more sparse this time and only lights up the outdoor uniform in natural, green and brown tones. The accessories are very present, from the leather shoes with almost punk metal applications, to the braided rope heels. The bags are soft and comfortable, even in clutch versions for the evening, in diamonds. The show closes with the man wearing tailored trousers and a belt with a maxi metal buckle: the logo is that of Prorsum, the knight who “looks forward” now printed on every detail of the brand. Surprising but remaining traditional seems to be Lee’s motto for Burberry.
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